Llama Routine Care

Vaccinate

There are various opinions about this, but the general consensus is that the minimum is to give the llama a yearly vaccination with C & D enterotoxemia/Tetanus. Some situations may require a more elaborate vaccination scheme, so be sure to consult your veterinarian. You can give these vaccinations yourself or have your vet do so.

In areas where rabies is endemic, it is a good idea to consult with your veterinarian about administering rabies vaccine. Rabies vaccinations must be performed by a veterinarian.

West Nile vaccination is now possible. It is a series of shots and costs about $100 per llama. Ask your vet about this if West Nile is an issue in your area

The RMLA's book on Caring for Llamas: A Health & Management Guide, has an excellent section on giving shots.

Worming

Worming is relatively easy, with major benefits to both llama and owner.

Llamas can be subject to a serious parasite problem in some areas, which is the meningeal worm, carried by white tailed deer (it is not present in all white tailed deer populations, however). A llama infested with this worm can become paralytic and die, so it is serious. One way to prevent this, is to worm llamas about every 6 weeks with Ivermectin (the cattle formulation), administered via injection. (Ivermectin as a paste does not seem to be as effective as injectable. The court is still out on "pour on" Ivermectin.) Do NOT use the new Ivermectin Plus; just use the regular Ivermectin. In fact, do not use any of the new Ivermectins (including the new pour-on formulations) until you have consulted with your veterinarian.

In addition, a heavy worm infestation (of other kinds of worms) can cause "unthriftiness" or death. So it is a good idea to bear in mind both the meningeal worm and problems that can be caused by the "usual suspects".

It is also a good idea to alternate wormer formulations. About every third worming, we use Panacur instead of Ivermectin.

In general, we find it easier to give Ivermectin via shot than by paste, but paste worming is possible if you know "the trick" (otherwise, you put it in, the llama briskly puts it back out...) Administer paste wormers well into the llama's cheek pouch, NOT into the center of the mouth, on the tongue.

It is definitely a good idea to consult with your veterinarian about what is a good worming program for your area and your situation. Our worming requirements changed the longer we were on our farm, as the "llama native" worm population increased. When we first started out, worming wasn't that critical, but now it is essential for good health of our animals, and we have had to change our approach, with the help of our veterinarian's experienced advice.

Toe Nail Trimming

The best situation to be in, is not to have to trim toe nails. Llamas don't particularly enjoy it, so we don't, either. However, some llamas' toe nails, if allowed to grow too long, can break off too short, causing the llama to be severely lame.

If you have a llama that paces the fence all the time, then its toe nails will take care of themselves. Particularly active llamas rarely need toe nail trimming (the males in our bachelor herd, for example). Llamas kept on stony ground rarely need trimming. Llamas being fed a poor diet rarely need trimming (as both their fleece and their nails are growing slowly). Note: This last is NOT recommended as a good method for keeping toe nails short.

Llamas being used a lot for work on stony ground or on roads (as in driving llamas, also usually do not need to have their toenails trimmed).

Female llamas, who tend to be more "couch potatoes" than our males, usually do need trimming.

Some clever trimming tricks:

  • Some llama breeders have put roughened concrete or lots of gravel around their watering troughs, so that each time the llamas come to drink, they wear off a tiny bit of toe nail. This adds up, and their nails rarely need to be trimmed.
  • When breeding llamas, the first time they breed is a great time to trim toe nails on both male and female llama. This is one of the only times that they will not notice their feet being handled. (On the second or third go-round, there is a fair chance that this will be sufficiently disruptive to cause one or both animals to jump up.) This method is a bit awkward, but may be better for you than llama wrestling, which is even more awkward.

Shearing

and a list of reasons for shearing

Llamas are usually sheared for the same reason sheep are sheared: to get the fiber and also for their comfort. In Southern climes (like ours), the second reason is more important that the first. We have also purchased llamas that we wished to show, whose fleeces were so badly matted that they couldn't be groomed (you can't brush out a mat). In that case, the best method for future appearance is to shear the entire llama. You can show the llama shorn, and in fact, it will look a lot better than showing the llama partially groomed and matted.

Llamas may be sheared either using hand shears or electric shears. Each method takes some care, and there are some special problems associated with working with such a fine, dry fleece compared to sheep's wool. There are some pamphlets available from Mt Sophris Llamas on this subject.

In fact, most llamas are quite calm when being sheared (Tom often will shear a llama in a 14' x 14' stall without even putting a halter on it). This is quite different than grooming, which they don't seem to like very much. On the other hand, we did have a llama that strenuously objected to being sheared, so it can happen. They do seem to be somewhat deflated (in attitude as well as size) when we return them to the herd, however. This is a good time to get pictures of your llamas, as it is one of the few times you have a really good idea of their body conformation -- when it is not being covered up with all that fiber!

Removal of fighting teeth

Intact (ungelded) male llamas will come into their fighting teeth (fangs) anywhere from two to four years of age. The normal complement is 6 fangs -- four on the upper jaw and two on the lower jaw. It is a good idea to let the teeth become long enough to be removed easily. Be careful, though, remove them before they can damage their buddies in the field. Once their fangs are removed, they can just have fun "gumming" each other.

The RMLA's book on Caring for Llamas: A Health & Management Guide, has an excellent section on fang removal.