Fencing for Llamas

Keeping llamas in

Fences for llamas need to be high enough so that they can't easily jump out (about 48"), low enough so that they can't crawl out underneath them (down to at least 12"), and with bars/wires close enough together so that crias can't get through them (8" or less apart).
None of this would be effective for a frantic llama (e.g., a baby being separated from its mother for weaning). Llamas can be extraordinarily persistent, athletic, sneaky and even stupid about their attempts to get to another llama or away from a dangerous situation. Wherever possible, use common sense, not just fences, in your decisions where to put a llama.
For example, we put llamas new to our farm in a secure stall in our barn. This serves both as a quarantine and also as a method to accustom them to our farm while getting them used to being separated from their previous companions.
Another example would be the situation where we are weaning young llamas. We bring the young llamas into a secure stall area (shutting it up entirely, as they will sometimes jump a stall door to get back to mom). We also never wean a baby alone, but always include a "safe" companion (another weanling, another female llama, a gentle gelding, etc.). We do not consider any intact male llama over the age of a year as a "safe companion". While sweet and gentle with us (e.g., humans), they may not be as good with a very young animal in such a confined situation.

Keeping dogs out

If you live in an area where attacks by dogs or dog packs can be a problem, you should consider extra measures to keep these animals out of your pastures. This is especially important if you are planning on raising llamas, or if you have a llama that means a great deal to you.
This may see odd to you if you have heard that llamas can be used for coyote control, but coyotes don't hunt in packs, and no one expects a baby llama to hold its own with even a single dog or coyote.
Extra measures can be using closely spaced high tensile fence, using woven wire or diamond wire fence, and combining this with the use of fence electrification. An extreme and costly but effective measure is the use of chain link fence.

Economical yet effective fencing

Probably the best choice in most situations is a 7-strand, electrified (all strands) high-tensile fence. Even including the installation cost as part of the price of the fence, it is still one of the least expensive fences. It is also very safe, and excellent for keeping all but the most determined dogs away and the most determined llamas in.
The biggest drawback to this kind of fence is that it is relatively easy to install it incorrectly, and an incorrectly installed high-tensile fence "de-installs" itself within relatively short order. This is a case where, unless one is very experienced, has the equipment required, AND a book on how to do it properly, it makes much more sense to hire a contractor. However, many fencing contractors who claim to be good at this, are not. Check out high tensile fences in your area and ask the following questions:
  • How long has this fence been up?
    If the fence has been up for at least 1 or 2 years and looks good, then very likely it was properly installed.
  • If this is the case, ask who did the installation.
  • Ask how long it took from the time of making the request of the fencer to the time when they got around to putting up the fence. (In our area, the good ones are usually (and unfortunately) booked months in advance. However, it is false economy of time to get someone out who can be there in a short time, if the fence is only going to be good for a short time, too.)
  • Find out anything else you can about this fencing contractor.
Bear in mind that most fencing contractors will add a "rock drill clause" to your contract. This is normal, and protects the fencer from unexpected costs arising from hidden shelves of rock underlying the areas you are fencing. Expect these costs to add more than $150 per day for every day that they have to bring in a rock drill. Sometimes, even this won't work, and in that case, the contractor may have to cement in a few posts. Notice: cementing in posts is a last gasp situation and is inappropriate for putting in normal high-tensile fence. If you decide to put in high-tensile fence, it is a good idea to do some research on the internet and/or read a book on this (from your library or your local feed store) before you talk to the contractor. Then you'll have a better idea if he knows what he is talking about.

Wooden versus wire fences

Wooden fences look nicer, but are really not recommended in most cases. The boards are usually too high off the ground and too widely spaced for keeping in young or crawling llamas, and will not keep out dogs or coyotes. Board fence is more costly to put up, and costs more to maintain, so it's a kind of lose-lose situation. In addition, practical experience has shown us that llamas rarely will jump a wire fence, but they can be rather apt to jump a wooden one. I think that it's because they can SEE the top of wooden fence, but wire's a bit harder to focus on. This is also why it is a bad idea to put a top wooden board on a wire fence intended for llamas. (You often see this at horse farms.)

Catching llamas

While llamas are charming and delightful creatures, most of them dislike being caught. This adds many interesting challenges to the life of a llama owner. If you feel that you already have enough challenges in your life, we'd like to suggest that you consider how you put up your fences (and what kind you put up) in advance.
On our farm we have big pastures in which it is impossible to catch all but the most docile llama (and probably not him, either). These "feed" into small run-in areas in which we can keep a llama by itself if need be. These smaller areas (about 100' by 25') are also large enough so that only about 20% of our llamas are catchable in them. In turn, we can use smaller areas adjacent to these (about 10' x 30') in which one person can catch most llamas, or two people can catch any llama in short order.
In some of our big fields, we even have "catch pens" that are associated with wooden shelters. We purposefully feed our llamas within these catch pen areas. Then, when we know we need to catch one or more of the llamas in that field, we shut the gates to the catch pens once the llamas have come in to get their grain.
If you have llamas that are hard to catch because this is very frightening to them, be sure to attempt to:
  • Catch them within a shelter or building. This prevents them from jumping a fence or attempting to force their way through a fence.
  • If you do have to catch a frightened llama in a fence corner, then, as you get the llama more or less cornered -- STOP. Let the llama calm down. Advance slowly, stopping often. This can be very reassuring and the llama will often be as catchable as its less nervous companions.
  • This advice holds true even if you are catching the llama in a building. Take it easy. It will really be easier for both you and the llamas involved.